London: It's a collection that takes you to a dreamy summer nights' garden in Izmir, Turkey, amongst lemon and pomegranate trees. Jennie Barck reports.
Differing from the general vibe of the collections at London Fashion Week, Bora Aksu conjured up a slightly wistful collection. It seemed to be nostalgic towards simple times when girls aspired to be flower crown wearing fairies, sitting in your grandmothers' garden with tea a crochet table cloths.
The show opened with a baby pink look consisting of a blazer, textured peplum top with lace detail and a translucent and fluid skirt. As the show went on, the outfits became more impactful as ruffles, face paint, and black crochet were introduced. The true highlight as the events unfolded however, was the finale where the models marched down the catwalk with bursts of tangerine, lemon and magenta; it took you to a richly coloured garden at its prime.
The collection was dominated by a multitude of sheer silks in powder pink and pure white, and contrasted with pitch black crochet and tangerine; reflective of how light controls everything. There were the usual Peter Pan collars, pretty cocktail dresses and traditional beauty could be seen through floral prints and feminine silhouettes. This time however the collection was a more personal one, linked to specific moments in time that Aksu remembers from his childhood, which gave the collection some more context and depth. The music that was quite futuristic also contrasted with the overall nostalgic feel.
The references are quite literal; you see the colours associated with sunsets, the flowers from the garden, and the breezy summer fabrics. Forms on skirts seem to be inspired by petals of flowers and prints include a rose pattern. Still there is no doubt that Aksu has developed a strong sense of design aesthetic and knows exactly what the customer is looking for in his designs; feminine grace, comfort and fluidity.
The flower crowns and fluid skirts are elements that add the collection a girly charm, but the streamlined blazers and suit trousers make it a collection for a woman who dares to cherish her past self. It felt opulent, but in a girl-next-door kind of way. You can also see the influence that the ballett and opera have had on the collection, from the intricate lace detailing to the lavish use of fabric and layering. The make up was was minimal, hence reminiscent of ballerinas.
The collection didn't challenge Bora Aksu's ideals of beauty or portray a radical point of view, but it was a refreshing change from the rigorous designs of other designers. It almost felt like a reaction against the seriousness of fashion, reminding us that being true to yourself and your roots and just taking a step back can be crucial at times.
Theme: Fairy women during the golden hour
Key items: Blazers, belts, frilly cocktail dresses, collared shirts
Colour: Pure white, baby pink, tangerine, magenta, lemon, black
Print and pattern: Garden illustrations, textured, rose print
Trims and materials: Lace, crochet, silk tulle, organza, ruffles
Footwear and accessories: Strappy sandal heels, flower crowns
